How to Fix a Door That Won't Latch

Short answer: a door that won't latch is almost always out of line with its strike plate. The latch tongue hits above, below or beside the hole in the frame instead of dropping into it. Tighten the hinge screws first, then see where the latch actually lands and move or adjust the strike plate to meet it. If the latch itself sticks or doesn't spring back out, the latch needs repair or replacement.

Why doors stop latching

• The door has sagged. Hinge screws work loose over time, especially on the top hinge, and the door drops a little at the latch side.
• The frame or door has moved. Wood swells and shrinks with humidity, which is a common reason a door that latched fine in one season stops latching in another. Houses also settle.
• The strike plate is out of place. The plate in the frame may have shifted, or its opening may be a little too small.
• The latch is worn or sticky. Inside the knob or lever, the latch can wear, gum up, or break, so the tongue doesn't extend fully.
• New weatherstripping is too thick, pushing the door back before the latch can catch.

How to fix it, step by step

1. Watch the latch as you close the door slowly. Is the tongue hitting the strike plate high, low, or not reaching it at all? A quick trick: rub a little lipstick, chalk or dry-erase marker on the tip of the latch, close the door gently, and see where the mark lands on the plate.
2. Tighten the hinge screws. Open the door and tighten every screw on each hinge, on both the door and the frame side. If a screw just spins, its hole is stripped: a longer screw that reaches the wall framing behind the jamb will usually hold, and it can pull a sagging door back up.
3. Check whether the latch now catches. Often tightening the hinges is the whole fix.
4. Adjust the strike plate. If the latch still lands a little off, loosen the strike plate screws and see if the plate can shift enough to line up. For a small miss, carefully filing the edge of the strike opening can be enough. For a bigger miss, the plate needs to be moved and the frame re-cut, which is where a pro helps.
5. Test the latch on its own. With the door open, turn the knob or lever and let go. The latch tongue should pull in and snap back out smoothly. If it sticks or stays in, a little dry lubricant may help; if not, the latch assembly is worn and should be replaced.
6. Look at the weatherstripping and the gap. If the door has to be pushed hard to close, the seal may be too thick, or the door may have swollen and be rubbing the frame.

What not to do

• Never leave an exterior door that won't latch as your only protection overnight. If the latch doesn't catch, the deadbolt usually won't line up either, and the door is not secure. Get it fixed before relying on it.
• Don't slam the door to make it catch. Slamming loosens the hinges and strike further and can crack the frame.
• Don't plane or cut down a door that is only sagging. Tightening the hinges often solves it, and wood you remove can't be put back.
• Don't remove the latch or lock from an exterior door unless you can put it back before nightfall.

When to call a locksmith

Call a residential locksmith when:

• the strike plate needs to be moved and the frame re-cut;
• the latch or lockset is worn, broken or stuck;
• the deadbolt no longer lines up with the frame after the door has moved;
• the door was damaged in a break-in attempt;
• you'd like the lock upgraded at the same visit.

A locksmith can realign the strike, repair or replace the latch and lock, and make sure the door both latches and locks properly. See our residential locksmith services for what that covers.

If your door won't latch and you'd like it checked, contact us and describe what the door is doing.